Day 3: Kebnekaise Fjällstation – Sälka

At 6:20 the alarm clock rings. Since we have a long hike ahead of us today, we need to start early. The breakfast buffet offers a lot of choice, but we are not allowed to eat too much, after all we have to move again right away. On the way back to the hut we again meet the two Austrians (Team NÖ II) who are just marching for breakfast. We really have to ask them for their names!

After cleaning the hut and packing our backpacks we leave at 8:30. We want to hike junction to Sälka and then take a long break. It is sunny, the path is good but stony and therefore more or less easy to walk. The views and the autumn colouring are fantastic. Right in front of us are the Kebnekaise massif, Sinničohkka and Duolbbagorni.

We hike comfortably and take short breaks once in a while to look and take pictures. It is so beautiful here that we would have loved to take a longer break and chill in the sun. However, the weather forecast tends to go towards worse weather, therefore we decided to hike fast on the main path to have still nice weather tomorrow and the day after in Nallo and Vistas.

The picture above shows a last view back to Laddjuvággi, through which we came yesterday from Nikkaluokta. The following panorama shows once more the mountain scenery and the Västra leden, which branches off and leads through the Kittelbäcken over the Vierranvárri to Kebnekaise.

After about two hours we pass the Sinničohkka on the left, into the valley in the shade. The path leads between Liddubbákti and Sinničohkka. It is now much cooler and windier. In front of us is a Swiss couple who are wondering about our heavy backpacks. They walk with 14 kg and 8 kg respectively. Oh my God, we really have to optimize! I wouldn’t have anything against a few kilos less in my backpack or a smaller backpack!

The track is easy, not steep either, but because of the large stones it’s hard to walk – every step has to be set consciously and we’re now moving much slower now.

After four hours we make our lunch break at a halfway windless place with view on the lake. The two Swiss, who had already taken a break before, catch up with us again, we chat a little and then continue together until we reach the junction: Singi 3 km, Sälka 15 km. So we only walked 10 km – feels different somehow. It is already 13:15 o’clock, so it will be a long day…

The Swiss states dryly that she is very happy that she doesn’t have to walk 15 kilometres more, 3 kilometres to Singi are enough. Well… But the weather – Sälka it is.

After the turn-off we go uphill and it is cold and windy. We think about unpacking the gloves, but it just works without them. The views are fantastic: the fjäll glows yellow and red, the blue of the lakes is added. If we look back the way, we can already recognize Team NÖ II in the distance, who are already close on our heels, by their colourful touring trousers. It won’t be too long before they catch up with us.

After crossing the pass we see the Tjäktjavagge and the Kungsleden far below. What a view! Down there last year we went in the opposite direction to Singi!

After 4 kilometres we finally are on Kungsleden again. Still a decent walk lying ahead of us, but the path is now easier – we already know this passage from last year, it is a well beaten path. At the junction to Sinnivággi, which we took last year to climb Kebnekaise on Durlings led, we take a break and Team NÖ II now catches up with us. We again chat a little and agree that the first team at Sälkastugorna will reserve for the other team.

The stunning views of this part of the trail are familiar to us from last year, but the autumn colouring makes it even more adorable.

At the emergency hut we again meet the two Austrians, who now take a break for their part. Now it’s finally time for the names, Heidi and Markus. We chat and put our feet up. After the cool valley and pass it is now wonderfully warm here in the Tjäktjavagge.

At 17 o’clock we continue, 7 kilometres to go, which we hike in a comfortable 2 hours. We pass the steel bridge which we know from last year’s thunderstorm and catch a great view of Kebnekaise.

There are two more bridges to follow, but we don’t remember them from last year and we wonder if they really existed back then. The way is easy, finally fast walking is possible, but our feet are already very tired.

In Sälka we are greeted by the Stugvärds friendly, we shop in the small shop and chat with them for a while. We also learn that there is a high probability for northern lights tonight. Heidi and Markus have already checked two beds for us, we even have a hut, the Säkerhetsstuga, for us Austrians alone. We enjoy the sauna after the long day, eat, chat and the time passes fast.