Day 11 – 13: Čáihnavagge – Čunojávri and two resting days

In the morning we are still super tired from yesterday’s block field day. Actually we wanted to go over the Smáilerienpas to Lossi and from there through the Rienatvággi (Storsteinsfjellet) to Hunddalen, but the weather seems to be too unstable. Instead we go down to Čunojávri. Compared to the other huts on our tour the hut in Čáihnavagge is not so comfortable and when stormy and rainy days force us to take a break, we want to spend them in a more comfortable hut. 🙂
It is windy, cloudy and it rains lightly, we start at 9 o’clock.

The way is easy, our path goes through a beautiful landscape. Although the weather is cloudy, the red of the autumn coloration shines brightly, but see for yourself:

The weather improves, gradually we change to lighter clothes. With us in Čáihnavagge a couple started, which overtakes us after some time. We chat briefly – their destination today are also the huts in Čunojávri, so we will see each other again soon.
The way goes along the Čáihnajohka down into the Čunovuopmi. Sometimes the sun shines between the clouds and provides for exciting oblique light and beautiful rainbows.

The path remains simple, which is perfect after yesterday’s half marathon over hills and dales. Today’s ground is soft and there are just a few challenges, including another bridge of the kind I love so much. ?
At least, we are rewarded with a double rainbow in front of Storsteinsfjellet.

…I mumble to myself and Norway gives me a (shallow and light) ford shortly afterwards. ?

Although things are going really well and easily today, a bit of fatigue is spreading. After all, we already have some kilometres in our legs and due to the good weather we haven’t had a single rest day yet. Once again it’s the reindeer that are perfectly distracting me from the tiredness…

… and from the next challenge: Hooray, a bridge! I won’t lose another word on this bridge, just have a look at the pictures! 😉

At 16 o’clock we move into the big hut after a comfortable 13-kilometer-walk with some breaks. The small, newly renovated hut is unfortunately already occupied: by Markus from Tübingen, whom we already know from Pauro, and by Mirjam and Joris, who overtook us on the path today.
A silent German hiker arrives after some time soaking wet in our hut. He grumbles, mostly he has headphones in his ear; we talk a few words and Markus remembers later that we already know him from last year, where we met him comparable communicative in Unna Allakas.

After body care, eating and the daily diary entry we take a bar of chocolat and visit Mirjam, Joris and Markus at the small hut. We chat the whole evening, exchange hiking experiences and talk about the planned next stages.

The small hut is great – inside painted white, with panorama windows, a comfortable sofa and comfortable armchairs.

The next morning Markus from Thübingen will go on and we will move to the small hut and chill the next day here. After 11 days we deserve a break. 🙂

We observe reindeer again, which just pass the panorama window and everybody is thrilled. Not only we are reindeer fans 😉
In between Markus goes down to the lake to take pictures at dusk.

At 8pm we go back to the big hut, where our roommate has heated the hut up to about 40°C and lies snoring on the sofa. We read briefly, go to sleep and look forward to tomorrow’s resting day.

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… and then we made two days of rest. 🙂
The first one we spend together with Mirjam and Joris. In the morning we pack, clean the big hut and move to the small one. Mirjam and Joris go to Unna Allakas for lunch and bring beer and chocolate – perfect for a cosy afternoon and evening. In the meantime, we wash our merino laundry and gossip with two hunters who go grouse hunting with a bright black dog.
In the evening there are already some snow grouse hanging at the other hut. At night we are spoiled with northern lights!

On the second day we are all alone in the hut. We gossip, read and enjoy the luxury of this cottage.

In the afternoon we get a visit from Gunnar from Norway, who moved into the big hut. He tells us about his tour “Norge på langs” (which means crossing Norway lengthwise) with his wife and two daughters. They make the long walk in stages, sometimes all together, sometimes he goes alone. They walk the way, which passes sometimes the Swedish border, just in Norway – this refers to his (then young) daughter, who didn’t want to hike in Sweden at all. This of course makes the route much more difficult, he has to cross difficult rivers or even swim through lakes, go over mountains and glaciers, which are otherwise bypassed. His method for crossing the lakes: rucksack with waterproof bag inside, with additional air, then the rucksack on the belly, he lies on it and “swims” through the lake. A very likeable, but also crazy guy. 😉

But now enough of the comfortable days, tomorrow we continue our tour, moving closer to Katterat.