We slept so well – one night all alone in a cosy hut, in absolute seclusion. Our alarm clock goes off at 7.30 and we are really well rested. We pack our things, clean our little hut – you remember: leave it always more beautiful than you found it yourself. Emptying the sewage, fetching enough fresh water and wood for the next ones – and around 9 o’clock we are ready to tackle the next stage.
Lothar arrived yesterday evening and stayed overnight in the tent. At the same time he is ready to march with us and so we tackle the first part together. We exchange the news immediately, since we have met at the rest hut. Lothar took down his tent after we left and also marched further, however, not quite as far as we. But he caught up yesterday and went directly to Røysvatn, but coming from the south around the lake, not over the Nordkalottleden like us.
The path begins as it ended yesterday – stony and somewhat hilly, with many small lakes and ponds interspersed. The marking consists of very small stone figures, which are hard to spot in this landscape. The general direction is clear – but it would make sense to stay on the path to get through halfway easy. And so Elisabeth, Lothar and I play the popular “Who finds the next stone man” game (with changing winners).
Lothar checks here still carefully whether my way is really the best way down, Elisabeth has more confidence in me! 🙂
Now the view opens and the Svártijávrre lies at our feet. Wow! We are now about 30 minutes away from Røysvatn and will walk for hours along this lake. Here in the descent, the Norwegian-Swedish border runs somewhere, so we leave Norway again and walk for the rest of the day in Sweden. For a while we walk together with Lothar, then he takes a break because he has established a strict system for himself: 1 hour and 15 minutes walk, then 15 minutes break. We stick to our usual conceptless walking, looking, marvelling, enjoying, gossiping and photographing – our modern interpretation of “lustwandeln” (sorry guys, this is native and antiquated Austrian language and might roughly correspond to strolling around). Therefore we make a longer lunch break at 12 o’clock (and are overtaken by Lothar again).
We now let you go with us with the following pictures, sometimes looks back are scattered, the captions tell you that (sorry that those are still in German language).
So, what do you say? Can you imagine how great it is to walk this way? In the following picture, it is about 13 o’clock and we reach the next lake, the Skuogejávrre. We are south-west of the lake and we will go out the whole length of this lake, on the eastern side. A bridge brings us over the Svártijåhkå and at the bridge we overtake Lothar, who is resting here right now.
Later on the tour we met a hiker who cut off from Gränsleden and went directly to this bridge west of Svártijåhkå, leaving out Røysvatn. According to his description, this was an easy shortcut to take (and I still would like to recommend Røysvatn to everyone, that’s a nice spot and with the shortcut, you miss the way we just described).
A little more than an hour later we see reindeer again in the distance and approach carefully. This time we have a headwind and one of the reindeer comes directly in our direction without smelling us. Portrait session!
A quarter of an hour later another reindeer didn’t notice us either, but something else at the lake. The rest of the pack isn’t far either. We take a long time and enjoy watching the reindeer undisturbed and then go on very slowly, so as not to put them into turmoil, but they react totally cool and only slowly increase the distance to us.
We decide it’s time for a break. It is sunny and warm, and we cook ourselves a warm meal and while we eat it, Lothar catches up with us again, but continues directly and tackles the ascent to the pass. We take our time and only follow him when he has already disappeared from our field of vision.
Uff – exhausting anyway. A look back, four hours ago (including breaks and reindeer watching) we were still on the opposite side of the lake. Now we go down again, according to the plan we cross a small plain with the lake Spadnejávrre and ascend again on the other side. We go without a map – a man doesn’t need a map – and come down too far to the west. When we notice our mistake, we have already lost a bit too much altitude and have to climb slightly to the east. Well…
In the distance we see Lothar again, high on a slope and so we have our doubts whether the direction can fit. He disappears from our field of vision, but then comes back again, descends again, walks across, rises again and disappears again from our field of vision. Hm – from our point of view clearly off-track, but unfortunately he is out of range for shouting.
We now walk through the lake landscape, cross a few smaller waters, but at Marggojåhkå we don’t find a way to get through with dry hiking boots and put on our ford shoes – while on the other side Lothar appears again and tells us when we arrive on the other side that he can’t find the way anymore. In fact, there are no markings or stone men to be seen far and wide (actually not for a long time). We look together on the map, I’m quite sure that basically only one hill separates us from Kåbtåjaure, we check it again for Lothar with our emergency GPS, fits together.
Lothar is not happy at the moment, he has been struggling for days with the orientation and the marking at the Gränsleden and Nordkalottleden. He is well equipped including satellite phone, but unfortunately, he has no GPS and the map alone is not enough for him. The one hour odyssey was probably not very helpful and he decides to turn back at this point, he has no good feeling to go on. Definitely a reasonable decision, I felt sorry for him again and again in the following days, because finding the way was later much less problematic than in the first days and generally there is a massive difference between good marking on the Norwegian part and often weak marking on Swedish side. I hope he makes a second attempt with lighter luggage and GPS.
For us it goes on, we cross the edge of the terrain and in the descent the Kåbtåjaure lies at our feet as expected. On the following panorama, one can almost see tomorrow’s day: on the left side along the lake, around the mountain and far in the background, the reddish, snow-covered mountains, that is the Paurofjellet at whose foot the Pauro huts are located. Between Røysvatn and Pauro there are 27-28km and today between 9 and 19 o’clock we covered more than half of this distance. There are people who do this – with lighter luggage – in one day! We think that we did a good job and for the first time on the tour, we are satisfied with our speed and our physical performance again.
Lustwandler Panorama: Ein Klick öffnet das Bild und man kann sich umsehen!
After this beautiful panorama we look for a flat and somewhat wind-protected campground, as also yesterday it gets cold fast, as soon as the sun disappears. We sit with down jackets in the tent, our feet in the sleeping bag, cook in the apse and enjoy the view. Afterwards: Night’s rest and within a short time we sleep deeply and firmly.
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